Corn Snake Care

Taking its name from the corn granaries, which attracted mice and then these mouse predators, the corn snake makes an excellent pet snake. It is generally docile, relatively easy to care for, and does not get very large; it's a great choice especially for beginner snake owners. However, these reptiles are also favorites of even experienced keepers due to the array of beautiful colors and patterns selective, captive breeding has produced. They are native to the southeastern United States, are mostly land-dwelling, and are active mainly at dusk and dawn.

Corn Snake Behavior and Temperament

Corn snakes are typically very docile and allow people to handle them while being very active. When they feel threatened they may vibrate their tails as a defense mechanism, similarly to rattlesnakes this is common in young and older snakes that are not used to being handled.

Like most snakes, corn and rat snakes are unrivaled escape artists. They will push at the lid with their noses looking for weaknesses and tiny openings, so a properly secured enclosure is important.

Housing the Corn Snake

A 20-gallon long glass tank (a longer and shallower version of the 20-gallon tank) makes a good-sized enclosure for a corn snake. It is important to use a secure-fitting lid that can be clamped down from the top.

In order to feel safe, corn snakes need places to hide. Provide one or more hides that are just large enough for the snake to curl up in; if it is too large the snake will not feel as secure. Pieces of bark can also provide hiding spots for your snake if they are atop a substrate that allows burrowing under the bark. Ideally, there should be an available hiding place in both the cooler and warmer ends of the enclosure. Also, provide a forked branch for climbing.

Heat

Maintaining your corn snake's home at the correct temperature is vital. An overhead incandescent heat lamp is the preferred method of heating, but corn snakes are from temperate climates, so they do not need tropical temperatures. Keep an ambient temperature of 80 to 85 F. A basking site should be 85 to 88 F. At night, the temperature should drop only as low as 75 F. Under tank heating pads or heat tape can be used, but they can make it difficult to monitor how hot the enclosure is, so use thermometers inside.

Luckily, corn snakes prefer the humidity found in a typical household. Between 35 and 60 percent is a good range for the ambient air in the enclosure: the higher end of this range will promote healthy shedding. Monitor your corn snake enclosure with a hygrometer, especially in the dryer winter months; you may need to mist the tank or refill an evaporating water bowl more frequently.

Substrate

These snakes like to burrow and hide, so using a layer of loose substrate (floor lining) on the bottom of the enclosure is key. A variety of materials can be used as a bottom. Some of these include aspen, coconut husk and cypress.

The chips that are soiled with feces can simply be scooped out; clean and refresh shavings as needed. Do not use pine or cedar shavings because the aromatic oils can cause irritation and respiratory issues in your reptile pet.

Food and Water

Corn snakes can be fed mice, rats or small birds. It is important to choose a food source readily available ro you. Feed growing snakes twice per week; adults need only be fed one appropriately sized prey item every week or two. Your snake's appetite might decline around the time of a shed, so reduce feeding frequency if your snake is about to start shedding, evidenced by cloudy eyes and dulling of the skin color.1

It is very important to keep the water meticulously clean. Snakes often use their water to aid them in defecation; when this happens, dump the dish, and clean and refill immediately. A heavy shallow dish several inches in diameter makes a good water source. You may even find your snake soaking in the dish, particularly before a shed.

Common Health and Behavior Problems

Mouth rot, or infectious stomatitis, is a bacterial infection of the mouth that often causes saliva bubbles as well as inflammation in and around the mouth.2 If left untreated, this ailment can cause infection in the bone, and the snake's teeth may be lost. A toothless snake will not be able to eat correctly.

As with most snake breeds, corn snakes are susceptible to fungal disease and respiratory infections. Fungal infection is marked by discoloration of the skin.3 A sign of respiratory infection is open-mouth breathing or wheezing.2 All of these health issues require treatment by an exotic animal veterinarian who has expertise in reptiles.

Choosing Your Corn Snake

When choosing a snake, a captive-bred specimen is the best choice. One shouldn't be difficult to find since corn snakes breed fairly readily in captivity. Look for a snake that doesn't have any retained skin from a shed. Choose a snake with clear eyes, no cuts or scrapes, and no mites or ticks. Also, a clean cloacal vent, an alert head, and mouth with a pink tongue and small amount of clear saliva are all good signs of health.